The Dutch duo step away from the abundance of highbrow fashion to create their Haute Couture spring summer 2018 collection from one archetypal fabric: duchesse satin
Limitation is the main feature of this surreal collection at the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Challenging the stereotypes of high-end confection, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren exclusively rendered their creations in a sophisticated Japanese duchesse satin.
The iconic fabric is shaped into bold patterns, stripes, checks and crafted patchwork. These intense geometrical graphics are placed side by side with floral motives and voluminous surfaces, conceiving the duo's most ready-to-wear collection to date.
Blurring the lines between fashion and art, Horsting and Rolf have carried out unforgettable performances that did not leave the crowd indifferent. During the Autumn/Winter 2017 collection the designers shook the industry with their oversized doll head creations. And in the fall of 1999 the American model Maggie Rizer stood on a rotating platform while the designers dressed her with layers of different outfits imitating a Russian babushka.
Without losing the theatricality that characterises them, this season the Dutch duo astounded the attendees with a less eccentric exhibition of the brand’s idiosyncrasies.
“La Gaite Lyrique” was transformed into a masquerade creating a dramatic and ominous atmosphere. The black curtained venue and the classical soundtrack immersed the guests in an intriguing spectacle.
These simple, yet effective elements and the clever use of lighting emphasised the main characters of the show: the extravagant garments.
Notable guests could be seen in the front row of the runway like the Italian entrepreneur Renzo Rosso along with his wife Alessia. It was hard to miss the American artist and musician Casey Spooner in the crowd with his head turning red beret and revealing denim shirt.
The show opened with a woven dress in a pale pink and white color-scheme with a simple lilac bow on the front, adding a delicate touch to the piece. This mini dress was inspired by Maggie Rizer’s outfit in the first layer of the Fall 1999 collection.
The eveningwear collection was composed by a mixture of extremely short column dresses and long tunic gowns. Surreal 3D floral masks and classy ballerinas are the sophisticated accessories that accompanied the highly elaborate pieces of clothing. Elements of the label’s signature like dimensional flowers, frills, billowing cuts and giant bows were featured throughout the display.
Pale palettes of yellow, pink and lilac dominated the colour-scheme, and patterns of stripes and checks are present in all the looks which allude to the recurring trends that will dictate the high-street style this season.
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